(31 May) Portela de Tomel São Pedro Fins to Punte de Lima

The guide book that we are using always has a bible verse on the top of the page so I may add that everyday to my post.  

Today's verse is:

"...ask and it will be given to you; seek and you will find; knock and the door will be opened unto you."

Matthew 7

When picking out the camino and starting place, the guide book said that this is one of the longest but most beautiful stages.  Half the route is on pathways through vineyards, woodland and Neiva valley.  I couldn't miss this and today did not disappoint. However, the heat and the distance made it tough.  I have no idea how I am going to pick which pictures to include because it was all beautiful.

It was difficult sleeping last night.  There was that one...that snored and the ear plugs were too deep in my backpack.  It was hot in the room....and then the Frenchmen started packing up at 5....which got everyone else up and going.  We were cleaned up, dressed and packed up by 6:30.  The sun was rising in the sky and it was nice and cool.  It was a great time to get out.  As we walked it gradually got warmer.  It took us 2 hours to walk the first half of our journey.  The scenery did not disappoint.  We walked through rural villages, up and down through valleys, past vineyards, over a bridge 1,000 years old, and through Euculptus and pine forests.  After 12 K/m we finally found an open cafe and had breakfast.  It was already very hot and slowed down our progress when we continued the last 12 K/m.  It was tough.

Ponte de Lima is the oldest town in Portugal and has lots of medieval charm.  We arrived along the river and were welcomed by the Avenida dos Plátanos (Plane Tree Avenue).  There a random man walked and chatted giving us advice for the next day, told us some of the history of Ponte de Lima and left us with the thought that we need to appreciate the present.  Enjoy the now and clear your mind of the monologue about tomorrow.  That's what the spirit of the camino is about.  This is something that is extremely difficult for me but was appropriate for me to hear before I continue walking the camino.

 

Town of Tamel.  Sun coming up in the valley from the church.

 

 

Back towards the town of Tamel.

 

1,000 year old bridge.

 

This church meant that the cafe we had breakfast was near.

 

Stone tub for locals to wash clothes (still in use by the way). We had just seen a woman with her freshly washed clothes in a wheelbarrow rolling away.

 

Beautiful hydrangeas scattered throughout our trail.  They are all over the place and the air smells fragrant.

 

Coming into Punte de Lima.  Kayakers on the far side behind the bridge.

 

The Avenida dos Plátanos (Plane Tree Avenue)

 

Church in Punte de Lima.

 

 

Facetime with William after dinner.

(30 May) Porto to Portela de Tomel São Pedro Fins

The Pilgrim Prayer

Guardian of my soul,

guide me on my way this day.

Keep me safe from harm.

Deepen my relationship with you,

your Earth, and all your family.

Strengthen your love within me

that I may be a presence of your peace 

in our world.

Amen

This prayer came from the book, 'Walk in a relaxed Manner, Life Lessons from the Camino' by Joyce Rupp.  When I started telling friends about my upcoming adventure the pastor at the church I teach at loaned me her book.  As I began to read, I loved the book so much that I bought it to read when I got home.  I started the book with the intention of learning more about the camino before my trip....but ended forming expectations about what I would encounter.  I decided I didn't want expectations.  I want the camino to lead me on a road with the faith that God will provide along the way.  

Today was the first day walking, but we still had to get to the starting point.  We would first take a train from Porto to Barcelosand begin our walk there.  We got up at 7, packed up and checked out.  First order of business buying train tickets for the train which left at 9:45.  The cafe next door had little quiches and coffee.  Before I came on this trip, I had quit coffee...it's going to be a love / hate relationship until I get home.  The sandwiches in the shop were amazing and my mini quiche was perfect for a quick breakfast.  At 9 the cathedral was open and wasn't that far from the train station.  We quickly went and got our first stamp in the pilgrim credentials.  Every time we stop for the day we are required to get a stamp to 'get credit'.  At the end we show our credentials and get a certificate (or compostela) if we walked traveled at least 100 K/m.  The cathedral was open and we saw other pilgrims from Germany waiting in line. It was fun chatting with them.  After we got our stamp, we said a prayer and headed to the train station.  It didn't take long since the Portugese have functional public transportation and the scenery along the route was rural fields of grapes and local wineries.  Barcelos train station was small for the busy town that it is.  Lots of shops, small churches and modern restaurants (McDonalds).  

We followed the map until we got to where we were supposed to see the first yellow arrow.  It was a huge sign, no problem....but then, where were the arrows that followed?  We stopped and ask and then we saw them.  They suddenly appeared on posts, on curbs, some were faded and some (like my life) were on posts guiding us but were hidden by beautiful roses.  Since the camino is a spiritual journey, I saw symbolism in this.  I hope a friend that I occasionally talk to will smile reading this.  We pray, we ask and we listen but most of the time we don't hear God's reply because his answer may be a small yellow arrow behind a rose bush instead of a big bold sign.

The walk was mostly uphill, through Eucalptus trees, farms and neighborhoods.  The terrain cobble streets, sand and pavement.  At one point we were told to turn onto 'Rua do Espírito Santo' or Road of the Holy Spirit.  Originally I thought it was because of a cross monument in a little square with a similar name but after seeing cars speeding passed decided that it was because a small street with speeding cars and pedestrians meant someone might see the Holy Spirit sooner than they planned.  We had to be vigilant.  

Later on the guide book said that the albergue was up the hill from the cross (different one).  We had been climbing up hill for most of the journey it was steep towards the end.  It was a relief finally seeing the cross, walking up the hill knowing that we were almost at a resting point.....hmm, maybe a little more symbolism here too.....It only took 2 hours for the 10 K/m today but we were glad when we finally made it to the albergue for hot showers, a little laundry and rest.

 

Our path for the day.

 

 

My pack.

 

First stamp!

 

In front of the cathedral in Porto.

 

Barcelos train station.

 

Our guide to Santiago.

 

 

Can you spot 2 in this picture?  Look on the curb on the roundabout.

 

Road of the Holy Spirit (both top and bottom).

 

Final landmark for the day.  

 

Home for the night on the right.

(29 May) Arrival in Porto Portugal

I am going to admit, until I got a nap on the last flight, the day was fuzzy.  Sleeping on a plane isn't something I have ever been good at.  After an 8 hour flight from Philadelphia, we finally arrived in Amsterdam and went through customs.  William was excited about his first European passport stamp but he had gotten a couple of hours sleep.  Around 7am, Dad and I helped mom get all the bags to the rental car and pulled hiking poles and toiletries out of our suitcases.  Despite not having gotten any sleep on the plane, I was feeling pretty good at that point.  We walked back to the airport and burned time exploring the panaorama terrace, drinking coffee, eating lunch (delicious salad btw) and finally checked in our backpacks for the final flight to Porto.  By the time we had gone through security at 1pm, I was beginning to drag.  Shiphol airport is big and I was hoping that between the 2 cups of coffee and walk to the gate, I would begin to wake up a bit.  But I didn't.  I was exhausted and crashed as soon as I got on the plane.  I was only awake for the last 20 minutes of the flight.  It was just enough sleep to keep me going until after dinner.

Porto is a charming old city, that is in the process of being renovated.  The tile work on the exterior of the buildings.  After dumping our backpacks at the hotel, we went out exploring down by the river.  Walking in Porto is either uphill or downhill on cobblestone streets.  Downhill to the river, uphill back to the hotel.  Loads of coffee shops, restaurants, cafes and souvineer shops line the river front and at 7pm with party is just beginning with live musicians.  It reminded me a little bit of what I imagine Savannah would be like during the summer season. We spent some time there exploring and soaking up the culture and grabbed a quick dinner.  I loved the vivaciousness of the culture and friendliness of the Portuguese.  Soon we bagan to get tired and took the trek up the hill back to the hotel.  It is our only planned night in a hotel and I was dying for a shower and to check in with family on the high speed internet before we begin the camino tomorrow.  

The report from Holland was that William is eating his weight in pizza and ice cream.  He is loving the beach, flew a kite and collapsed into a deep sleep at 5pm.  I miss my husband, my kid and my friends.  The reality of beginning the camino tomorrow is beginning to hit me.  Tomorrow is the first 6 of 121 miles to Santiago.

 

William's first European passport stamp

 

Windmills from the airplane.  William would love how Earth friendly Portugal is.

 

Porto: View of the Cathedral on the way to the river front.

 

Portuguese method for drying clothes.  What I'll be doing for the next 2 weeks.

 

Father / daughter picture by the river.

 

This guy wanted my dinner.  Behind the bird on the other side of the river, wineries that specialize in Port wine.

 

That's not me, but someone else's martial arts picture (look on the stairs above the ❤️).

 

Porto Train Station.  We'll be leaving from here tomorrow.

 

Tile work inside the train station.  How the heck did they do that?

 

I looked to see if this was a functioning mailbox because I had a postcard to mail.  A woman spoke and said: "Es wird morgen gelehrt." (German translation: It will be emptied tomorrow.)  I replied with: Ok. Danke. She was pretty shocked I understood her.

(28 May) To Pack or not Pack

Packing for the trip was probably the most stressful and aggravating thing I've ever done.  Ben and dad were great resources on how to prepare but there were always still too many options on which backpack to get, poles, hiking shoes, clothes, how many short/socks/underwear etc.  For some people this is probably the most exciting part of the journey but for someone that isn't a huge fan of shopping it was very overwhelming.  The backpack I originally purchased several months ago ended up not being the one that's on the trip with me....  I spent so much time overthinking the first half of the trip and then ended up forgetting my tennis shoes for the second half of the trip.  Good grief.  After all the fretting, worrying and second guessing, I'm finally on the first flight of my adventure and remembered a little card that I saw laying in the room I teach in.  I just need to keep remembering that I am on a journey of faith.  Faith that the people, places and things that I need will be there. 

(27 May) Walking on Faith

I initially started this blog so that family that lived far away could watch William grow up.  Well....facebook made it easier, so updates on this blog didn't happen.  Tomorrow I leave for a trip of a lifetime.  A father - daughter trip, walking from Barcelos, Portugal to Santiago de Compostela.  Then an option to walk on to Finisterra.  Because a trip like this doesn't come around very often, I have been on the fence and have decided to try to write while I go.  I'm a planner and I would love to look back at this 'journal' and see the lessons of faith that God has planted in my life.  Walking from town to town each day on faith will be the greatest challenge for me but I can't wait to see who and what God brings into my life in the coming weeks.

So this plan is the plan.  I am sure our plan isn't the same as Gods plan but at least we have a goal each day.  

 

Thank you to my friends who have helped me get ready for this trip.  You guys know who you are 😉.  You helped me get in shape, you gave me advice, you listened to me talk about my fears, you encouraged me and you gave me the gift of friendship.  Thank you to my husband who hooked me up with ear plugs (so I could sleep despite the snorers), put up with my craziness the past ..... weeks and countless other things.  I couldn't have done it without your support.  While I walk, I will pray for you as you have and are doing for me.  Thank you!

Bom Caminho!!